View of the “Twenty Dollar View” at Moraine Lake on top of the “Rockpile” as taken from my iPhone
The beauty of Banff National Park is legendary. There are not enough pictures that could be taken, stories that could be told, or songs that could be sung about its splendor which would fully capture its magnificence. Banff is a place you need to see, experience, and perceive with your own eyes and senses. It is actually one of five Canadian National Parks in the province of Alberta that make up the Canadian Rockies. Of course, Banff is the most famous Park of the bunch. The mountains, by themselves, would make the Canadian Rockies one of the most stunning natural wonders in the world. The alpine glaciers that sit atop the mountain tops and the spectacular lakes that they feed into put the Canadian Rockies in a league of its own. The vibrant, unique blue and green colors of the lakes are the primary attractions that capture the imagination of millions of visitors each year. Moraine Lake and Lake Louise, which reside in Banff, are the most iconic of the lakes. The out of this world color of the lakes are due to glacier silk. As it refracts light, our eyes perceive the blue and green. While most visitors travel from far away to see these main attractions, the beauty of the Canadian Rockies is so plentiful that there are a lot of smaller or more remote points of interest (e.g. hikes, waterfalls, etc.) that you can venture to get away from the crowds. The locals in town at the hotels or restaurants are friendly and more than happy to offer suggestions if you ask. For all those reasons, Banff National Park is certainly one of the most beautiful places in the world. For anyone who ranks it on the top of their list, I would not argue.
Next, the town of Banff is an awesome, dreamy resort town nestled among the mountains and lakes of the Canadian Rockies. The town is what I imagine Santa’s Village in the North Pole would look like. Even in the summer, it exudes a timeless, festive holiday aura. I really enjoyed the beauty of the architecture of the buildings contrasted with the mountains in the background. On the other hand, it is a very commercialized and pricey place. It is not an ideal spot if you want a more relaxed time with nature. Visitors can certainly seek and find it outside of the town. Within the town, you will see plenty of shops. Of course, you will have a plethora of options for great food. You can probably find anything you may be craving and can think of: steakhouses, Italian, Asian, bakeries, coffee, etc. In addition, there is plenty of lodging in town. Again, it is not cheap. Regardless, I certainly enjoyed the amenities in town before or after a long day of sightseeing and exploring the Park.
If you have the capacity to extend your trip 2 or 3 days to head up to Jasper National Park, I highly recommend it. Banff is probably more beautiful but Jasper is marvelous in its own right and it is less commercialized. Even if you do not chose to head all the way up to the heart of Jasper, it is popular to take the drive 2 ½ hours north to Athabasca Glacier, near the beginning of the park, to see and get a chance to step on top of an alpine glacier. I went up to Jasper first for two days then drove back down to Banff for 3 days. I could have easily spent 1 or 2 days extra at each Park to enjoy them at a more leisurely pace. However, it is expensive and I was able to take care of my list of things to do and see at a very efficient pace since I was traveling solo. I will also point out that I got incredibly lucky with the weather conditions during my trip. In general, mountain climate can change very quickly. As a result, I was checking the weather constantly. I chose the end of August because I heard the colors of the lakes are most rich and beautiful during that month. However, I was ignorant to the fact that there can be significant smoke via annual wildfires from British Columbia. From the last two weeks of July through August, there is a high risk of smoke ruining your trip. I was informed that the smoke completely blocked out the sight of mountains in the two weeks before I arrived. I also heard about the horror stories and upset tourists who felt their vacations were wasted. I definitely would have felt the same way. It is heartbreaking and frustrating to pay thousands of dollars to see the Canadian Rockies and not be able to see anything. Cruelly, the end of July and August is prime vacation time. In the absence of smoke, it would be an ideal time to experience the Rockies. The trails of most hikes would have thawed and it is warmer. However, heavy smoke is certainly a factor to consider before you book your trip. Of course, you may not have a choice if that is the only time you have available. I spoke to a teller in a bank in Jasper and she noted that May through early July are the best times to visit the Canadian Rockies. Again, it may not be ideal for hikers since some of the better and higher elevation hikes may not have thawed out from the winter yet. For this reason, I agreed with her suggestion that mid-September is probably the best time to visit. The smoke is usually gone by then. Moreover, there is a lot less tourists after Labor Day when the kids are back in school. In terms of the hikes, the most popular ones will have plenty of people and wildlife warnings will not be an issue. However, be cognizant of the signs. The Park will warn of wildlife, such as bears at less trafficked trails. In these instances, it may be illegal to hike alone. Sometimes, it may just be highly recommended. Of course, be very careful and weary of hiking solo if either warning is present.
Ironically, I was upset about the heavy rain that occurred on my first day in the Rockies. In actuality, I lucked out because the rain cleared out all the smoke. It came back at the end of the week when I was in Banff but it was light and I could still enjoy the views. In addition, I definitely experienced mountain climate. Sunshine is the prime commodity in the Rockies. You will chase it and try to align your visits to the main attractions to when there is sun. When you see photographs, you generally see the landscape with perfect conditions. Realistically, you are not likely to get great conditions for all the points of interest. Accordingly, prioritizing is a key to planning a trip. I also feel the weather forecasts need to be viewed in a different perspective. The following is my translation of forecasts in the mountain climate:
Sunny – Is it too good to be true?
Partly cloudy – chance of sunny
Cloudy – partly sunny
Mostly cloudy – chance of sun
Less than 50% chance of rain – still a chance of sun in between the clouds and light precipitation at some point
High chance of rain – probably going to pour.
In hindsight, I got a very fortuitous roll with the weather in Jasper and Banff. In addition, I recommend buying the National Parks pass ahead of time at http://www.banfflakelouise.com/parks-pass-online. It is $9.80 per day and covers you for all the parks in the Canadian Rockies.
The closest airport to Banff is in Calgary. It is an hour drive from the city to the town of Banff. If you do not want to drive, there are buses from Calgary to Banff. In terms of things to do in Calgary, I did not come across too many attractions in my research that I wanted to go out of my way to see. In short, it is just a city. It looks like a fine city to live in but there are not too many things that tourists definitely need to see. Nevertheless, it has a pretty skyline that I spent a few hours to view from different vantage points. Moreover, I was pleasantly surprised that I found some really good food in Calgary.
For supplies (water and granola bars) for my trip, I stopped by a Real Canadian Superstore. They are basically a Wal-Mart equivalent. Moreover, there are hotels near the airport. I stayed at the Courtyard by Marriott Calgary Airport (2500 48 Ave NE, Calgary, AB T3J 4V8, Canada) the night I landed and the night before I flew back home. The Courtyard and other hotels are a quick, ten minute drive south of the airport.
- Three Main Lakes
1. Moraine Lake
The Lake offers a million dollar view [although technically it is a $20 view since it was once featured on the Canadian $20 bill]. It is a spectacular sight to behold with its distinct, accentuated blue color of the lake nestled in a gorgeous group of mountains known as the Valley of the Ten Peaks. It is the smallest of the three major Lakes in Banff. With the mountains towering right over the top of it, the setting provides a cozy atmosphere. In addition, it has the richest and most memorable color of all the lakes in the Canadian Rockies. The color is due to glacier silk. Since Moraine Lake is right next to the glacier that feeds it, it has a higher concentration of silk which results in the most beautiful color. Not surprisingly, it is extremely popular. A lot of visitors note it as the highlight of their trip to Banff. On the other hand, it is the smallest of the three most popular lakes in the area and has the smallest parking lot. Combined with its popularity, it is the most difficult lake to visit since the parking lot fills up quickly. If you want to drive, the trick is to get to the Lake extremely early and wait for sunrise. However, the secret is out and the safe time to arrive becomes earlier and earlier. At the time of my visit, I was told it fills up between 6-6:30 AM in the morning by the front desk of my hotel. I also met a fellow traveler who gave me a stern warning about the parking. He noted that he saw cars argue with the parking attendants to enter but they would not budge. Accordingly, many people travel half way around the world and do not even get to see Moraine Lake. He advised me that the best way to ensure I see the Lake is to pay for and join a tour since they are guaranteed entry into the Lake. Otherwise, I would need to get up extremely early in the morning to get to the parking lot. After my trip, I have done some more investigating. From September 10 to October 8, there is a free shuttle from the Lake Louise overflow parking lot to Moraine Lake. Obviously, it is not an option for most of the prime vacation season. As such, there is also a shuttle from Banff to Moraine Lake for $10 round trip from the Banff train station. It is the most economical option if you are unable to drive there. However, it takes 90 minutes each way so there will be a cost in time and limits your ability to see more on the day you visit Moraine Lake.
During my trip, I remembered that I have woke up three times at 3 AM to drive two hours to see a sunrise at the top of a mountain [an inactive volcano, Haleakala] on Maui. Waking up at 4:30 AM to drive one hour to the Moraine Lake parking lot was easier. I arrived at the parking lot at 5:40 AM and took a nap. On my way out of Moraine Lake, I confirmed what my fellow traveler had warned me about. The road up to the lake was closed after the parking lot filled. The parking attendants allowed cars to enter as cars left but the process was not the most efficient. A lot of visitors leave after the sunrise and they get enough of the view and pictures. When I left, I counted a good number of open parking spots. However, I only saw two vehicles coming up the road. Accordingly, it was not a one for one exchange. The process should definitely be made more efficient since the Lake should be enjoyed by as many visitors as possible. If you do not arrive early to ensure a parking spot, it becomes a crapshoot whether you arrive at a time when the parking attendants will allow you through to the Lake. If you do not want to wake up early, I agree with the advice to find and hire a tour company or pay for a shuttle that will bring you up. You pay thousands of dollars just to go to and stay at Banff. It would be a shame not to see arguably the best attraction to save a few extra dollars. You can also guarantee seeing the Lake by staying at the Moraine Lake Lodge. Considering the prime location, it is not significantly more than the money I spent on a hotel in the town of Banff: approximately $100 more per night. Of course, you will need to reserve a room at the Lodge well in advance.
When you arrive at the parking lot, you will see the Moraine Lake Lodge and the Lake immediately at the end of the lot. However, make your way to the left for the short path to the “Rockpile”. At the top, you will be rewarded with the best views of the Lake. Since the Lake is small, you can see most of it from there. Rockpile is also the spot where all the most popular and iconic photographs of Moraine Lake are taken. Although you can certainly just stay on the paved paths up to and on top of Rockpile, you can also scramble around the rocks. Most visitors wander around in search of the perfect shot of the color of the Lake. It is also a great struggle to find a spot without other visitors in the picture. I spent more than an hour and a half taking in the Lake and trying to snap the immaculate photo. In my opinion, the best spot was at the top of the paved path, all the way to the end at the right facing the Lake. Nevertheless, it took some angling and waiting for people to walk away for a moment to get a photo without them in it. Since it was a difficult endeavor in the early morning, I can only imagine how much more challenging it would be in the mid-morning at the height of the tour bus madness with a lot more tourists. It is another incentive to wake up early. Of course, you will also have a time limit to enjoy the Lake if you join a tour group. With the freedom from a tour, you can also go on a hike that starts at Moraine Lake or rent a canoe to paddle around it.
Moraine Lake Road is approximately 30 minutes off of Lake Louise Road. If you go to Moraine Lake at sunrise, you should have enough time to make it back down the road and get to the much larger Lake Louise parking lot before it fills too. I got there around 8:30 AM and there was plenty of parking. However, it was in the middle of the week on Wednesday and I assume it fills up quicker on the weekend.
- Lake Louise
It is the most popular attraction in Banff. It is a much larger lake than Moraine Lake. In contrast to the coziness of Moraine Lake as a small lake that is a little secluded and tucked into a bed of mountains, Lake Louise is a big lake with a lot more open space. As soon as I finished walking down the path from the parking lot, I turned to face the Lake and was immediately blown away by the magnificence of Lake Louise. The mountains on both sides appeared to open wide for me to see the perfect lake with its pristine blue water. The water acts like a mirror as it reflects the surrounding landscape. Straight ahead in the back, the glacier that feeds the Lake can be seen on the mountain tops. In actuality, the glacier is well behind the Lake. At first sight, the glacier and the mountains it is on appear to be at the back of the Lake. That surreal, optical illusion completes the picture perfect but contradictory canvas. I enjoyed the serenity of the moment as I paused to perceive the explosion of infinite visual beauty. At the same time, another tourist was awestruck by the occasion and could not contain her excitement as she blurted out “How beautiful!” in Chinese. In any language, the beauty of Lake Louise speaks for itself. It is truly a sight and experience that each person needs to behold and soak in with one’s own eyes and senses.
Lake Louise also has a much larger parking lot than Moraine Lake. Even when the main parking lot fills up, there is an overflow parking lot with a free shuttle back to the Lake. Accordingly, it is not as exclusive and visitors will definitely get the chance to see it during their trip. There is also plenty to do at the Lake. One of the most popular activities is canoeing on the Lake. It is not cheap at $115 per hour to rent a canoe. It sits 2-3 people. Since I was visiting the Lake by myself, I did not do it. Instead, I took advantage of the hiking trails at the Lake. There are three main points of interest to hike to at Lake Louise. The first two are up the mountain to the right of the Lake: the top of the Big Beehive and the Lake Agnes Tea House. The lookout points at the top of Big Beehive are absolutely stunning. Obviously, they provide an elevated, aerial view of Lake Louise. From ground level, you may not see the true color of the lake. As you look down on it from above, the color of the lake is a bright turquoise blue. Moreover, you will get incredible views of the mountain tops and mountain ranges of the Canadian Rockies. Next, Lake Agnes is gorgeous too. It is an emerald green Lake situated at the top of the mountain above Lake Louise. There is also a popular tea house on the lake. The lines are long to sit at and eat or takeout from the tea house. If you do not want to wait, definitely bring your own food because it still is a perfect spot for lunch at Lake Agnes. Finally, the Plain of Six Glaciers is the other popular hiking trail. As the name implies, you will see six glaciers on the trail. If you do not want to do a significant hike, I definitely recommend the 2 km (1.2 mile), relatively flat one way walk on the Lake Louise Lakeshore Trail to the end of the lake. It is a relaxing, beautiful stroll on the lake. If you still want to have great aerial views of the Lake and surrounding area without needing to hike, there is also a Gondola at the Lake Louise sky resort that will take you up to the heights of the mountain tops.
After the path from the parking lot, you will see the famous and enchanting Fairmont Chateau on the north end of the lake. As you walk on the Lake Louise Lakeshore Trail and look back or look down from the Big Beehive, you will get amazing views of the lake, the Chateau, and the mountains in the background. During my visit to Lake Louise, there would be intermittent moments when openings in the clouds and rays of sunlight would grace and touch the Chateau and the Lake. It looked like the gates of Heaven opening. I remembered thinking to myself “Even God must need inspiration sometimes. When he does, he looks down from heaven and gazes at Lake Louise.”
Plains of Six Glaciers, Big Beehive, and Lake Agnes Loop (11 km (6.8 miles) and elevation change of 1,892 feet (577 meters))
I must confess that I did not mean to hike a loop on the trails at Lake Louise. I received recommendations to hike to the Lake Agnes Tea House. I assumed it was a quick, short hike so I never did any planning ahead of time. Accordingly, I went in the wrong direction then figured out an impromptu route on the fly. It was a happy accident as I got to see part of the Plain of Six Glaciers, the lookout points on top of the Big Beehive, and the Lake Agnes Tea House before returning back to the Lake. It was a legitimately challenging hike and one of the most scenic I have done. In general, there are many different trails and ways to get to the same spots. As a result, you can definitely plan out your own hike as well as make changes as you go by looking at the maps along the trails. Nevertheless, below is the route I took.
- Lake Louise Lakeshore Trail 2 km (1.2 miles) to end of Lake.
It is a beautiful, relaxing walk along the north side of Lake Louise. As you walk along the trail, you can observe the lake reflecting the surrounding landscape like a mirror. You can also follow and watch the canoes as they make their way around the Lake. Moreover, you get beautiful views of the Fairmont Chateau as you look back towards the beginning of the trail. Again, this trail is definitely worth the time even if you do not want to do a long hike.
Shortly after you walk past the Fairmont Chateau and start on the trail, it splits in two. The Lakeshore Trail is flat and continues along the Lake. The Lake Agnes Trail is to its right and starts ascending up the mountain. Of course, it is the quickest route to the Lake Agnes Tea House. However, I wanted to walk along the Lake and saw signs pointing towards a “Tea House”. When I did the hike, I was unaware that there is a second tea house on the Plain of Six Glaciers trail. As such, I stumbled upon a longer route that became a loop. In hindsight, I should have known since there were few people on the route I took and I knew the hike up to the Lake Agnes Tea House is very popular. Nevertheless, I saw more than I initially intended and I would recommend your own variation of it.
- 1.8 km (1.1 miles) then make a sharp right on the Highline Trail
As you continue on Lake Louise Lakeshore Trail, it will turn into the Plain of Six Glaciers trail. It is another 1.8 km on those two trails from the end of the lake to a sharp right that puts you on the Highline Trail. In reality, I could have made my way up to the mountain sooner. I passed signs to make a right toward Lake Agnes Tea House and the Big Beehive. However, I got the opportunity to walk along the river that feeds Lake Louise and get closer to the glaciers that feed it. I was able to see the alpine glaciers that are situated at the tops of the mountains.
- 2.1 km (1.3 miles) to the Beehive via Highline Trail and Big Beehive and Highline Connector trail
These trails up to the Beehive are legitimately steep. Nevertheless, it felt like a ridge line where I could look at the sides of the mountains on the other side of the Lake. I also had the full Alberta weather experience on this trail. There is a saying that “If you don’t like the weather in Alberta, wait five minutes”. It constantly went from sunny to cloudy as sunlight snuck through the clouds. The situation felt like a kid playing with the light switch: on then off, on then off, etc.
The payoff at the top of Beehive is extraordinary. There are many lookout points for amazing views down at Lake Louise and the Fairmont Chateau. Moreover, the Rockies are truly majestic up there as you stand among the mountains and gaze into the valleys below. For hikers, the Beehive is a must see at Lake Louise.
- 1.8 km (1.1. miles) on Big Beehive trail to Lake Agnes Tea House
From the top of the Big Beehive, I followed the Big Beehive trail down to Lakes Agnes, circled the lake, and ended up at the Lake Agnes Tea House. There are steep switchbacks connecting the top of Big Beehive and the base of Lake Agnes. I walked very slowly down the switchbacks because I was worried about slipping. There are also a few spots where the path was very narrow. It appeared erosion had wiped out pieces of the trail. It may be a trail that is better to go up than down. It is obviously much more strenuous but your grip will be better. I probably would not be very comfortable going down the switchbacks if they had snow on them or it had just rained to make it slippery.
The path that wraps around Lake Agnes provides pretty views of the lake. The lines for food at the Tea House are long. The to-go line is quicker than the line to sit down and eat off the full menu. I had no interest to wait on either. Nonetheless, the area around the Tea House provides great views of Lake Agnes and the mountains around and behind it. It is a picture perfect spot to eat lunch. I ate a couple of granola bars I brought with me. I would recommend bringing a light lunch to eat up there.
- 0.7 km (0.4 miles) Mirror Lake connector and 2.6 km (1.6 miles) on Lake Agnes Trail back to Fairmont Chateau
I could have taken the Lake Agnes Trail from the Tea House back to Lake Louise. The Mirror Lake connector is a quicker route down that connects back to the Lake Agnes Trail. The connector trail can be reached at the set of stairs over the small bridge right next to the Tea House. Naturally, the Mirror Lake provides a beautiful reflection of the surrounding area. You can also look up at the Big Beehive. The reason for the name becomes obvious. The bumps all over the rock makes it look exactly like a giant beehive. From there, I made it back down to the base of Lake Louise to complete an incredible hike.
- Lake Minnewanka
In terms of pure beauty, Lake Minnewanka is a distant third to Moraine Lake and Lake Louise. However, that statement speaks to the epic splendor of the latter two lakes rather than disparage Lake Minnewanka. Moreover, it is the largest of the three main lakes in Banff. It is the closest lake to the Town of Banff at a 15 minute drive. Visitors can also take the buses in town to get to the lake. Of course, Lake Minnewanka is spectacular in its own right. It is long and winds in between the mountains like a snaking river. Unlike the other two lakes, you cannot see all of Lake Minnewanka by simply going there and standing at one lookout point. Accordingly, visitors need to take a cruise or hike the shoreline to see the entire lake.
I paid the $62 for the scenic cruise. I bought the tickets ahead of time. There were visitors who bought the tickets at the Lake. Of course, it is safer to buy the tickets in advance to guarantee your spot, especially during busy times. The boat is long and comfortable. I stood at the back of the boat most of the trip because there are no windows there. It can get cold but I enjoyed feeling the breeze off the lake and fresh air. In addition, it was the best spot for pictures because there are no windows with smudges to obstruct the photos. I also utilized a waterproof sleeve, with a strap, that prevented my phone from flying out of my hands and off the boat. The boat cruise lasts approximately an hour. You will see the mountains on all sides of the Lake as the boat sails through the water. The ship takes you to a midway point where you can look at the mountains that mark the end of the other side of the Lake. It is a beautiful spot that is the highlight of the cruise. The boat also does not have a restroom. Accordingly, do not drink too much water before you embark. I drank two cups of coffee in the morning and was worried I would need to go.
If you do not want to pay for the cruise, visitors can also hike the lakeside to get to the same spot that the boats sail to then turn around. However, it is a 17.1 km (10.6 miles) out and back on the same trail with a 360 meter (1,181 feet) elevation change. On the other hand, you can also just go as far as you want or can handle then turn back. After the cruise, I took the recommendation of the tour guide to walk 1.5 km (0.9 miles) to a bridge lookout point (follow the signs to Stewart Canyon). In actuality, there was not much to see on the bridge. It is where the lake empties and the river flows outward. However, the spots right before the bridge were awesome. There are unofficial lookout points that give you views of a bay of the lake, a pier with boats, and a set of mountains in the background. I highly recommend the walk as an addition to or in lieu of the cruise.
- More Lakes
1. Emerald Lake (5.3 km/ 3.3 miles and relatively flat loop around the Lake) – Yoho National Park
In most places, Emerald Lake would be the main attraction. Around Banff, it is a little bit of an afterthought for most visitors. While there were plenty of tourists at the entrance to the Lake, I walked the full loop around it and found it to be a serene location to escape the large crowds at the three main lakes in Banff. The Canadians Rockies features stunning lakes that have a pristine mirror lake effect. Naturally, Emerald Lake has that same stunning feature. However, it is also a lake in the Rockies where you can have space to think and reflect on all the beauty you have seen and are seeing as you walk a loop around the Lake. It offers a rich emerald green color in contrast to the gray shale and limestone of the surrounding mountains. In contrast, the Lake also appeared turquoise at times. At the opposite end of the entrance of the Lake and the loop, there is a clearing with a great view of the Lake. Behind it, you can also get a closer look at the glacier that feeds it. At the entrance, it appears that the glacier is immediately next to the Lake. From that clearing, you get to see and realize that the glacier is much further back.
Emerald Lake is approximately a half hour drive from Lake Louise. I spent an hour and a half walking around the loop and taking plenty of time to snap photos. The trail takes you through the cabins of the Emerald Lake Lodge, where you can stay. Visitors can also rent a canoe. At a current rate of $70 per hour, it is much more economical than renting at canoe for $115 hour at Lake Louise. In addition, it has a small parking lot. Nevertheless, there is plenty of street parking at the road that leads up to it.
- Peyto Lake
It is 30 minutes north of Lake Louise and about an hour above Banff. It has the rich, turquoise water that is renowned in the Rockies. It is a lot smaller than Lake Louise so you can take a short walk on a paved path up to a lookout point to see the entire lake. Moreover, the source glacier is not up in the mountain tops. It is on ground level and connects directly to the Lake. It is the reason why the water color is so rich. The glacier silk is more concentrated the closer a lake is to the glacier. Most tourists stop at the main lookout point. Accordingly, it is very busy. For a more private and better view, continue up. There is a loop that starts at a blue sign shortly after the first lookout point. Walk in a counterclockwise direction. There are multiple dirt paths with footprints that head to the other lookout spot. There is also a blue information stand that points you on a definite path to it if you are not sure the previous ones are actual trails. I spent an hour to walk up to and enjoy both lookout points. There are also longer hikes to go further up the mountain.
- Bow Lake
It is also 30 minutes north of Lake Louise and an hour above Banff. It is about 5 minutes from Peyto Lake. If you are not driving up to Jasper, it makes sense to stop by both lakes at the same time. I stopped at Peyto Lake on the way up to Jasper and Bow Lake on the return drive back to Banff. As the name describes, it is basically two oval lakes that connect at the middle to form a bow shape. Naturally, it has the same beautiful blue and green colors seen at the other lakes. The mountains also contrast the lake perfectly. I recommend walking to the bridge behind the lodge. The views are amazing. You can see both sides of the lake from there. In addition, you can take the easy 9 kilometers (5.6 miles) with modest elevation change at 155 meters (509 feet) elevation gain to the Bow Glacier Falls if you wanted to add the popular hike to your trip. I passed on that hike but the Lake was definitely worth a 10 minute stop to soak in and enjoy.
- Other Popular Attractions
1. Banff Gondola
Initially, I leaned toward skipping the Banff Gondola. I had hiked up to the top of the Big Beehive above Lake Louise and felt the views could not be better at the top of the Gondola. However, a waitress in town highly recommended the Gondola and noted it was one of her favorite spots in Banff. Accordingly, I changed my mind. I am glad I did because she was absolutely correct. The 360 views at the top of the summit of Sulphur Mountain, where the Gondola brings you to, were spectacular and one of a kind. At the top, you will have an aerial view of the town of Banff and Lake Minnewanka on one side. On the other side, there is a sea of mountains as you stand among the peaks. While there was light smoke from the forest fires in British Colombia when I was there, it could not smother the beautiful views. Definitely walk on the boardwalk at the top. It can be very cold with the wind but the best views are on it. I spent a half an hour walking to the end of the boardwalk and back. When you get off the Gondola, you will be in the Banff Interpretive Centre. It is a state of the art, gorgeous building with a museum, quick film about the National Park, and dining. While I did not dine at the restaurants, the food smelled great. Moreover, there are stunning mountain top views for you to enjoy while you sit at the top of the world and eat.
It is a $64 round trip ticket for the Gondola. There is a line for the tickets outside but I walked inside to a booth. There were only a couple of people in front of me and I got a ticket immediately. The ticket will give you approximately an hour and 20 minutes to go up and enjoy the views at the top before catching your ride back down. However, you can adjust the departure time at the ticket window at the top if you want more time. The designated times for the trip up and the trip back down are only used to control lines. It is a quick 8 minute ride one way on the Gondola. It can be a little rocky with the wind. However, it is safe. If you are afraid of heights, it is better to sit on the side facing the top of the mountain on both legs of the ride. You can always turn and look backwards.
You can also hike up Sulphur Mountain from the parking lot. It is a 5.5 km (3.4 mile) hike one way that will take at least 1.5 hours. However, it is definitely strenuous because the end point is 7,486 feet above sea level. Accordingly, the air is thinner and it becomes more difficult to breath. In addition, the hike is legitimately steep with 655 meter (2,149 feet) elevation change. From the gondola, I could see the switchbacks and tell it was very steep. Moreover, it can be very cold as the wind blasts you on the side of the mountain. Personally, I would probably only do the hike in sunny, warm weather. On the other hand, I saw a group of people run a race up the mountain. One of them noted she was slow because she completed it in an hour. As such, it can definitely be done. It is certainly a challenging but rewarding hike. If you hike up and do not want to hike back down, the one way ticket will cost half the roundtrip.
- Johnston Canyon (2.7 km (1.7 miles) and 234 meters (768 feet) elevation change to Upper Falls)
It is a very beautiful hike through a canyon to see multiple waterfalls. It is a relatively easy to hike for all ages because the trail includes manmade platforms and paved paths. Families can definitely take their young children and strollers through the Canyon. As a result, it is very popular and extremely busy during the day. I highly recommend going at the end of the day. I arrived at the parking lot after 4 PM. As I drove down the road, I saw visitors returning to their cars that they had parked on the side of the road. By the time they finished their visits, there were plenty of spots in the parking lot for me to select from as I arrived. In addition to parking, it is just a better experience later in the day. There were plenty of people on the trail when I was there. I had to wait to pass some visitors and needed to wait a little for the lookout points for the two main waterfalls. However, the traffic jams and lines were reasonable. If I had gone to the Canyon earlier in the day with a lot more people, the foot traffic and waiting would have definitely annoyed and frustrated me to no end. Of course, I would have also added additional time to walk to the entrance of the trailhead in the likelihood that the parking lot was full and I needed to park farther away on the road.
The path to the Lower Falls involves walking on platforms that are firmly secured on the side of the Canyon. Consequently, you are walking over the river that cuts through the Canyon. Once you get to the Lower Falls, there are lines to go through a hole in the wall that brings you right next to the roaring waterfall. Nevertheless, you can still see the Falls from the bridge next to that hole if you do not want to wait. I stopped by that spot on my way back after the line dissipated. It was nice but I certainly would not wait in a long line for it. As you continue on the trail to the Upper Falls, it turns into a paved path. As a warning, the pavement has some slick spots if it has recently rained and is wet. I saw a woman losing her footing a few times on her way down as I was going up. I did not have an issue ascending. However, I faced the same issue she did when I was descending. Even though I was wearing hiking boots, I wiped out and landed on my butt. Ironically, I hiked in the Canadian Rockies all week without falling but finally slipped on a paved road. At the Upper Falls, there is a bridge near the base that serves as a lookout point. However, you need to go on line to stand at the end of the bridge to see the falls between the rocks. On the other hand, you can make your way up a set of stairs to the Upper Falls overlook. There was a lot less people and I felt the view at the top was better than the view at the bottom of the Falls.
The crowds started to thin after the Lower Falls. As such, you can start escaping them on the walk towards the Upper Falls. After the latter, hikers can go another 3.1 km (1.9 miles) past the top of the Canyon to see a group of lakes called the Ink Dots. However, it would be a significantly longer hike round trip. Of course, most people turn back at one of the two Falls. I turned back at the Upper Falls.
- Town of Banff
Again, the town of Banff is also great but extremely commercialized. On the other hand, it has plenty of great options for food. There is also a plethora of lodging choices to choose from in town.
- Bow River Trail (1.3 km (0.8 miles) and relatively flat) to Bow Falls View Point
I consider it a walk instead of a hike. There are signs in downtown Banff that point to the direction of the trail. Once you get to the other side of the river, the path parallels and follows the river. The road to the Bow Falls View Point is paved. The Falls are nothing special. It is basically the flow of the river running over some rocks that are on a modest incline. Nonetheless, walking along the river is a calming, soothing thing to do before or after dinner during the twilight of the day.
- Food
1. Block Kitchen and Bar (201 Banff Ave, Banff, AB T1L 1H8, Canada)
It is an Asian fusion tapas restaurant. However, tapas are supposed to be small plates and the portions were definitely not small. All the dishes I saw looked amazing. All the dishes I tried were great. I ate dinner at Block Kitchen on my first night in Banff and went back the next day for a snack. The pork belly lettuce wrap was unreal. The meat was lean but really tender. The marinade was excellent. Since I am allergic to peanuts, a spicy thai sauce was substituted. It absolutely loved it. Next, the chicken karage was fantastic. The fried skin was soft but still packed a crunch. My general issue with fried chicken is that the meat inside gets dried out. The meat inside the chicken karage did not have that problem. It was hot, tender, and juicy. The duck spring rolls were also very good. It comes with a mint sauce. My favorite dish was definitely the chilled Ramen bowl. The noodles were awesome. Moreover; tofu strips, mushrooms, peas, and seaweed were an amazing combination of toppings. In my opinion, the chicken was the weakest part of the dish. Nevertheless, it is still serves as a good source of protein.
While the food is great, it is a small restaurant. There are a limited number of tables and it is difficult to sit a group of people during peak dinner hours. I dined by myself so I was able to squeeze into a seat at the bar. I would recommend going early or late to avoid a long wait.
- Balkan Restaurant (120 Banff Ave, Banff, AB T1L 1A4, Canada)
I ate incredible Greek food at the Balkan. I started with the hummus and pita as my appetizer. They were excellent. In particular, the hummus was really smooth. Next, the most popular dish on the menu is the legendary lamb shank, which has been a staple on the menu since the restaurant opened in 1984. It was one of the best lamb dishes I have eaten anywhere. The meat was fall off the bone good. At first, I tried to use a knife to cut off a piece. However, it was super tender so a piece literally fell off as soon as my knife made contact and before I used real force to cut. Afterwards, I ate the entire dish with just my fork. It was a testament to the tenderness of the cooked lamb shank. Moreover, the chestnut sauce on the dish was awesome and the meat soaked it right up. I also thought the potatoes were delicious. There was a lemon zest that elevated the taste. The rest of the sides, which included a vegetable mix and rice, was good. I also recommend the ginger beer. It had a spicy kick and was not too sweet. In addition, the restaurant had a modern and beautiful interior and décor. Overall, it was totally a wonderful spot for dinner.
- The Maple Leaf (137 Banff Ave, Banff, AB T1L 1C8, Canada)
Alberta is known for its beef. As such, I highly recommend dining at a steakhouse at some point during a trip to the province. The Maple Leaf is an excellent steakhouse in downtown Banff. I ordered a 10 oz Alberta New York. The strip steak was a perfect medium rare. The beef was chewy and tender. The onion frites on top of the steak were very good too. Moreover, the side of vegetables under the steak was great. It included Shanghai bok choy, which is one of my favorites.
- Arashi Ramen (#213 Sundance Mall, 215 Banff Ave Box 4153, Banff, AB T1L 1E6, Canada)
It is a hole in the wall on the second floor of an old mall. It was a little difficult spot to find the first time. You need to find the stairs at the back of the mall to get to the second floor. Arashi Ramen is very popular in Banff. I attempted to go for dinner, near the closing time, and there was still a line. I returned the next day at an off hour around 2:30 PM in the afternoon and successfully avoided a line. I started with the gyoza as an appetizer. The dumplings were solid and what I generally expect for gyoza. Of course, diners go to Arashi for the ramen. As a warning, let your server know your food allergies. Their signature ramen uses peanuts even though the menu does not mention it. I double checked with the server just in time before the kitchen started making it. As such, I switched my order to the Shoyu Ramen. The char siu (roast pork) was a little dry. On the other hand, it was lean meat and not the fatty pork I am used to in a Ramen bowl. Next, the noodles were thin but firm. Overall, they were very good. I enjoyed the egg in the bowl but felt the yolk was lukewarm. Nevertheless, I generally enjoyed the toppings. The spinach, bamboo chutes, and seaweed were a good mix. Finally, the broth was very flavorful. Consequently, the two key elements in a quality Ramen bowl is there: good noodles and tasty broth for the noodles to soak up. Although Arashi Ramen had very good Ramen, the best bowl of Ramen I had in Banff was at Block Kitchen.
- Dessert
1. Beavertails Banff (120 Banff Avenue & 201 Banff Avenue Banff, Alberta T1L 1E7)
It is a dessert spot that originates from Ottawa. I absolutely loved Beavertails when I tried it during a past trip to Ottawa. I was thrilled that there were two locations in the town of Banff. A Beavertail starts with a fried piece of dough that is shaped like [you guessed it] a beavertail. The dough is chewy and crispy. Then, additional sweet paste and toppings [the selected flavor(s)] are put on top of it. I ordered a Beavertail with a half hazelnut & banana and the other half oreo. It is basically your pick of sugar placed on top of more sugar. It tastes as good as it sounds and looks. On the other hand, it can be a bit messy. It is difficult not to get the sweet goodness all over your hands. Beavertails are perfect for crisp, cold weather. Nonetheless, it is delicious in any weather.
- Cows (138 Banff Ave Unit #111, Banff, AB T1L 1C3, Canada)
It is an ice cream shop chain with locations throughout Canada. I walked past Cows multiple times without going in because I thought to myself “How good can ice cream be”? The answer is pretty freaking good. I ordered the Cookie Moonster. It featured chunks of oreos and cookie dough. The ice cream was rich and creamy. The waffle cones were stellar too. I have tried many great ice cream shops throughout my travels. Cows rank among the best of the best. I highly recommend it if you are craving ice cream in Banff.
- Breakfast/ Coffee
1. Good Earth (333 Banff Ave, Banff, AB T1L 1B1, Canada)
I had my best latte in Banff at Good Earth. It had an immaculate rich and smooth texture. The latte art was also top notch. There was a minor flaw with the slightest hint of bitterness at top. Otherwise, the latte was perfect. I also went back for a second time. There was a different barista. The latte was not as good. There was more bitterness and the texture was not as thick. In addition, there was no attempt at latte art. Nonetheless, the substance of the drink was there. Consequently, my two lattes at Good Earth were excellent and very good.
- Wild Flour (211 Bear St #101, Banff, AB, Canada)
It is a bakery that features phenomenal pastries and coffee. I ordered a cranberry, white chocolate scone for breakfast. It was fantastic. The outside was crispy while the inside was soft. It was also sweet but not too sweet. In addition, I had an almond macaroon. It was delicious. The middle tasted like almond cookie dough. In terms of the latte, it had a rich coffee taste. The microfoam on top was smooth. As such, the latte art was great. Moreover, there was not a hint of bitterness, which means the beans were extracted perfectly. If I had to nitpick, I would say the texture was not consistent with my preference. It was not watery but it could have been a little thicker. Since Wild Flour is one of the most popular places for breakfast, it gets very busy. I got there early. There was no one there at 8 AM. A little more people showed up at 8:30 AM. Then, the line finally started to form around 9 AM.
I also went to Wild Flour’s separate and standalone coffee shop, Little Wild (119 Banff Ave, Banff, AB T1L 1A1, Canada). Especially since I had tried Wild Flour first and was expecting a great experience at Little Wild too, the latte was bitterly disappointing. First, the latte art was non-existent. The mircofoam was off a little. While the texture was adequate in the top third of the drink, the rest of the drink was completely watery and tasted watered down. It was basically water with a hint of coffee. Regardless, the shop sells some of the most popular pastries from the bakery at Wild Flour. If it is busy at the flagship location, Little Flour is a viable alternative to get most of the same great breakfast selections without the same wait. Nonetheless, it will not have the full selection that Wild Flour features.
- Whitebark Café (401 Banff Ave, Banff, AB, Canada)
It is an awesome café at the ground floor of the Banff Aspen Lodge, next to its lobby. The breakfast options are exceptional. I definitely recommend the granola bowl. It had berries, raisins, and yogurt to go with the granola. At first, I tried a little of each component. By themselves, they were just ok. However, they mix into one amazing bowl. It is an example of the whole being significantly greater than the individual parts. I also highly suggest ordering the banana bread. I really enjoyed the raisins inside. In general, it was stellar.
- Banff Park Lodge (222 Lynx St, Banff, AB T1L 1K5, Canada)
There are plenty of options for lodging in the town of Banff. There are also many options throughout the Park. For example, you can also stay at lodging right at some of the main attractions such as Moraine Lake, Lake Louise, Emerald Lake, and Johnston Canyon. Of course, the price can vary greatly and be significantly more. I stayed at the Banff Park Lodge. It is a pretty hotel. I felt the room was clean and comfortable. Of course, it is not cheap. At first, I also thought it was tacky to charge for self-parking and internet. However, my hotel up in Jasper cost more. I realized that the price baked in parking and internet. Since many tourists reach Banff without driving a car, it is fair that they do not get charged for parking. Moreover, most visitors are going to be out all day and not use the internet anyway. Overall, I would recommend it as a good place to stay but it is certainly not a must considering how many options there are in town.
- Calgary
Again, the closest airport to Banff is in Calgary. Nevertheless, it is worth taking a few hours to take in views of the city skyline. Moreover, I was pleasantly surprised with the food in Calgary.
- Views
1. Memorial Drive on Crescent Heights
Crescent Heights is on the other side of the Bow River, directly north of downtown. It is also elevated so you can look down at the city skyline. Accordingly, you can drive right on Memorial Drive and park along it for great views of the skyline. On the other hand, the Calgary Tower is probably the most recognizable building in the skyline. Unfortunately, it is dwarfed by the buildings to the north of it so you cannot see it from Crescent Heights.
- Prince’s Island Park
It is a park in the middle of the Bow River, directly above downtown. In terms of size, it is modest. It is a 2.7 km (1.7 mile) loop around Park. I walked it in less than 30 minutes. It is a pretty city park but certainly not as impressive as some of the most famous, massive city parks (e.g. Stanley Park in Vancouver, Central Park in New York, etc.). As you walk around the park, you will also see ground level views and look up at some of the buildings that are part of the city skyline.
You cannot drive into the Park. You need to drive to the north part of the downtown area, park there, then take a quick walk over to the park. I found street parking on Eau Claire Avenue SW. There is also a big parking lot there.
- West of Murdoch Park at 9 St NE & Centre Ave NE, Calgary, AB, Canada
If you go to Murdoch Park, there is a paved path that runs west of it. You are east of the city skyline and get a side view of it and the Calgary Tower.
- Scotsman’s Hill
In order to get a full view of the city skyline with the Calgary Tower in it, you need sight lines from the south of it. I did not go to Scotsman’s Hill but it is the spot visitors go for that view.
- Food
1. Cactus Club Café (2612 39th Avenue N.E., Calgary AB)
It is a casual upscale, modern restaurant. It is also a beautiful restaurant. Specifically, it was the first time I have seen a couch in the men’s washroom. In addition, the food was absolutely wonderful. I started with the tuna stack. Considering that tuna is a saltwater fish and not native to Alberta, it was as fresh as it could be. On the other hand, the tuna was marinated so well in soy sauce that it took me a few chews before I could taste any signs that the fish was imported and not fresh out of the ocean. The sauce explodes in flavor and has a spicy kick to it. Next, the avocado was soft and fresh. The sprouts went great with the stack. The wonton chips were very crisp. For my entrée, I had the mushroom steak. I ordered it at and it was the perfect medium rare. The beef was tender and chewy on the inside and had a char on the outside. The mushrooms and sauce complemented the meat perfectly. The asparagus was also cooked immaculately: soft inside with a crunchy outside. The mash potatoes were fluffy. It was like biting into a cloud with a potato aftertaste. The food and décor of the Cactus Club Café was exceptional. The only nitpick I had was that it was really dark in the restaurant like some steakhouses are.
- River Café (25 Prince’s Island, Calgary, AB T2P 0R1, Canada)
I had afternoon tea at the River Café. It is a picture perfect location in Prince’s Island Park with the Bow River flowing in the background. The inside of the restaurant and the outdoor patio seating is beautiful and top notch. The food was also amazing. I ordered the fish and game board. It was a great, fishy twist on a charcuterie board. First, the pickled string beans were good. However, they were very sour so be prepared for it. Use it as a palette cleanser in between trying different meats. In terms of the meat, they were all great. The cured salami was magnificent. Nevertheless, the trout lox and cod were my favorite. I have never tasted anything like them. Moreover, the crackers were great too: thin and crunchy. In addition, I ordered a green tea that came in its own teapot. The tea was very good and the presentation with the pot was excellent.
- OED Breakfast (825 1 Ave NE, Calgary, AB T2E 0C4, Canada)
It is a popular breakfast spot with multiple locations in the city. There is a section of its menu dedicated to poutine. I went for the lox poutine. The fresh lox came in strips. There was potato wedges instead of fries in the bowl. The potatoes were very crisp. The poached eggs were cooked perfectly. I took my server’s recommendation to order the eggs medium so they pop and ooze into the rest of the bowl. I also went with her suggestion to add avocado, which was an excellent addition. Of course, the cheese curds are the key to any bowl of poutine. As expected, they were very good. In addition, I asked for the bowl to be half potatoes and half spinach. Nevertheless, the portion size was gigantic. I still could not finish all of it with half the potatoes replaced with spinach.
Overall, the food was very good. I did not like the taste of capers in the bowl. On the other hand, the presentation blew me away. As such, it was a case of looks being greater than substance even though the substance was very good anyways.
About Pat Wong
Patrick is a contributor for Rookerville. He is an avid sports fan. Before joining Rookerville, he was part of a defunct New York Yankees message board, NYYankeefans, where he was its top poster and was inducted in its Hall of Fame for his contributions. Patrick is also a passionate fan of movies. He has enjoyed reading movie reviews over the years and is excited about the opportunity to review movies. Patrick is also a passionate foodie. He is Yelp Elite for three years in a row and shares his great finds in New York and his travels.
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