View of Maligne Lake, “Hall of the Gods”, and Spirit Island as taken by my iPhone
Of course, Banff National Park is the first Park people think of when it comes to the Canadian Rockies. Honestly, I did not even know the Canadian Rockies comprised of 5 separate parks before I planned my trip. Jasper National Park is actually the largest of the parks and features the most wilderness. Banff is more beautiful but it is also a lot more commercialized. Nonetheless, there are obviously many tourists visiting Jasper too. I did not fear wildlife on the hiking trails I traversed on because there were plenty of people around to keep them away. However, it is not overrun by tourists either. I definitely felt there was a lot more room to breathe and enjoy the Canadian Rockies up in Jasper in contrast to Banff. Of course, Jasper is certainly stunningly beautiful in its own right with the majestic Maligne Lake, breathtaking skyline views and hikes, and a glacier and icefield you can take a tour on.
I will point out that I got incredibly lucky with the weather conditions during my trip. In general, mountain climate can change very quickly. As a result, I was checking the weather constantly. I chose the end of August because I heard the colors of the lakes, which are the main attractions in the Canadian Rockies, are most rich and beautiful during that month. However, I was ignorant to the fact that there can be significant smoke via annual wildfires from British Columbia. From the last two weeks of July through August, there is a high risk of smoke ruining your trip during that period. I was informed that the smoke completely blocked out the sight of mountains in the two weeks before I arrived. I also heard about the horror stories and upset tourists who felt their vacations were wasted. I definitely would have felt the same way. It is heartbreaking and frustrating to pay thousands of dollars to see the Canadian Rockies and not be able to see anything. Cruelly, the end of July and August is prime vacation time. In the absence of smoke, it would be an ideal time to experience the Rockies. The trails of most hikes would have thawed and it is warmer. However, heavy smoke is certainly a factor to consider before you book your trip. Of course, you may not have a choice if that is the only time you have available. I spoke to a teller in a bank in Jasper and she noted that May through early July are the best times to visit the Canadian Rockies. Again, it may not be ideal for hikers since some of the better and higher elevation hikes may not have thawed out from the winter yet. For this reason, I agreed with her suggestion that mid-September is probably the best time to visit. The smoke is usually gone by then. Moreover, there is a lot less tourists after Labor Day when the kids are back in school.
Ironically, I was upset about the heavy rain that occurred on my first day in the Rockies. In actuality, I lucked out because the rain cleared out all the smoke. It came back at the end of the week when I was in Banff but it was light and I could still enjoy the views. In addition, I definitely experienced mountain climate. Sunshine is the prime commodity in the Rockies. You will chase it and try to align your visits to the main attractions to when there is sun. When you see photographs, you generally see them with perfect conditions. Realistically, you are not likely to get great conditions for all the points of interest. Accordingly, prioritizing is a key to planning a trip. I also feel the weather forecasts need to be viewed in a different perspective. The following is my translation of forecasts in the mountain climate:
Sunny – Is it too good to be true?
Partly cloudy – chance of sunny
Cloudy – partly sunny
Mostly cloudy – chance of sun
Less than 50% chance of rain – still a chance of sun in between the clouds and light precipitation at some point
High chance of rain – probably going to pour.
In hindsight, I got a very fortuitous roll with the weather in Jasper and Banff. I spent two full days in Jasper (arrived in the town of Jasper Sunday afternoon and completed my tour of the Athabasca Glacier around 5 PM on Tuesday) and checked off most spots on my list. However, I traveled alone, got up early, and got through my itinerary efficiently. I also did two summit hikes on the same day when the weather was the best. However, a trip to Jasper could definitely be 3-4 days to go at a slower pace or provide a buffer for weather. Of course, cost is a motivating factor to be as efficient as possible since it is certainly not cheap to stay in Jasper. Regardless, I am thrilled I added a couple of days to visit Jasper as an addition to my trip to Banff. The closest airport to Jasper National Park is in Edmonton. It is a four hour drive to the town of Jasper. Calgary is almost a five hour drive and cuts through Banff and a lot of the Rockies. Of course, many visitors to Jasper are combining it with a trip to Banff. It made sense for me to fly into Calgary, drive up to Jasper first, and then head back to Banff before returning to Calgary. Although the drive is long, the road between Jasper and Banff is one of the most scenic drives anywhere. There are plenty of lookout points and points of interest to break up the drive. In addition, I recommend buying the National Parks pass ahead of time at http://www.banfflakelouise.com/parks-pass-online. It is $9.80 per day and covers you for all the parks in the Canadian Rockies.
- Maligne Lake
As one of the locals educated me about the pronunciation, it is called “ma” “lean” and not “malign” Lake. Mary Schaffer, who was an artist and explorer that became the first European to see Maligne Lake, called it the “Hall of the Gods” and noted “if Lake Louise is a pearl, Maligne is the entire pearl necklace.” Although I cannot attest that it is more beautiful than Lake Louise, it certainly deserves its place as one of the most picturesque and incredible spots in the Canadian Rockies. Maligne Lake features emerald green colored water, majestic mountain ranges in the surrounding area, and glaciers capping some of the mountain tops. Interestingly, it was created by a landslide. It also holds the distinction for being the largest glacier, naturally formed lake in the Canadian Rockies at 22 kilometers or 14 miles. Lake Minnewanka is technically bigger but only after human intervention and alterations.
Naturally, there are many ways to enjoy the Lake. The first is simply driving there to walk around. It is an hour drive from the town of Jasper to the Lake on Maligne Lake Road. It is an exceptionally scenic drive. First, there are plenty of mountains on each side. Next, the road runs past and along another lake: Medicine Lake. There is an awesome lookout point at the north end of Medicine Lake. It provides one of the better views and pictures in the Park with the mountains around it and the water reflecting the landscape like a mirror.
Once you are at the lake, it is relaxing to walk around the shoreline in between the two parking lots: the first that is at the main part of the Lake where the boat cruises take off and the second at the end of the road where a lot of the hikes begin. There are four lookout points in that vicinity that stand out. The first is left of the Maligne Lake Lodge and Gift shop as you face the lake. If you are walking from the first parking lot, it will be immediately on your left when you reach the ticket office and the Lodge. It has the Boat House in front of it and offers a view of the Lake with the mountains in the background. The second spot is in front of the Maligne Chalet. It is a more centered view into the Lake with the mountains in background. Moreover, you can get a picture with a boat cruise taking off from the dock. The third location is the bridge next to the Chalet that is on the way to the second parking lot. Around noon, I had an amazing mirror lake effect that reflected the fluffy clouds up in the sky. The fourth lookout point is the pier at the second parking lot. It offers similar views to the first two points. In addition, you can get a picture of the Lodge and Chalet with the set of mountains behind the primary area at the Lake. Of course, definitely stroll the shoreline to enjoy the former two spots, which are the most popular, and find other personal vantage points for your enjoyment.
Moreover, you can also go on a hike, rent a canoe, or pay to go on a boat tour to fully enjoy Maligne Lake.
Bald Hills Hike (10.4 kilometers/ 6.5 miles and 495 meters/ 1,620 elevation change)
For the parking lot for hiking, make sure to go to the second lot that is at the end of Maligne Lake Road. You will pass the first parking lot, which is for the Lodge, Chalet, and boat cruise docks. Once you park, there are signs that point you in the direction to Bald Hills. There are multiple routes to get to the top. You can also complete two loops for a figure 8 to traverse all the paths. Doing all of those trails will add another 3 kilometers or approximately 2 miles to the hike. I took the most direct path to the summit up and the same direct route back down to the parking lot. The hike begins on an old fire road. At approximately 2.2 km (1.4 miles) on the path, it splits. The sharp left is a steeper 1 km (0.6 miles) trail up to the lookout point to see the Lake. You can continue on the fire road where the incline is more gradual but much longer. However, the steeper route is not overly steep. Moreover, there are a lot of tree roots that help with providing footing and keeping the ground together. Although it rained hard the day before my hike, I did not feel the trail was slick at all. That route also provides great views of the Lake as you ascend up to the Bald Hills. You can hike up one side on the trail and down the other side. However, I preferred to go on the shorter route with the views of the Lake. It took me an hour to hike to the Lookout point from the parking lot with this route.
After the lookout point, it is another 0.5 km (0.3 miles) before the trail splits into two directions again. It is the second loop. Either direction will get you to the summit. I went left (clockwise). From the lookout point, it was approximately another 2 km and took another hour to get to the summit. The trail is relatively flat on the Bald Hills before you take one of two sharp right turns to get to the summit. You will also see why it is called Bald Hills. On the way up, there are a lot of pine trees. At the top, there are no trees on the rolling hills. Accordingly, the hills are bald because there are no trees. The ridge line at the summit is rocky and there are some loose rocks. Consequently, it requires some minor rock scrambling. Moreover, there was a dusting of snow on the Hills and the summit in late August from recent flurries. Definitely be alert and make sure you are stepping on solid ground as you proceed towards the summit. In addition, definitely bring a jacket with you if you decide to hike to the summit. It can be very windy and cold at the top. My hands were frozen stiff even though I kept them in my pockets. If the skies are clear, the summit provides incredible panoramic views of Jasper National Park.
I went early in the morning to beat the crowds and have the trails basically to myself on the way up. I walked passed the crowds hiking up as I descended on the trails. On that morning, low lying clouds entered the mountains and valleys. Once they get stuck, they do not really dissipate until 2 PM in the afternoon. I sat at the summit for half an hour hoping that the clouds would clear for a moment so I could get a clear view of the Lake and the surrounding mountains. They partially opened up briefly for a decent view but I did not get the spectacular view I coveted. On other hand, the clouds did part for a brief moment on another side so that I got a view into the valley that Maligne Lake Road cuts through. Regardless, most of the panoramic views were blocked or partially obstructed by clouds. Accordingly, it may not be worth the hike up to the summit if low lying clouds are present since it is above the cloud line. In that situation, the lookout point is good enough unless you just want to complete the hike or want to roll the dice that the clouds clear or open up for a moment when you are at the top.
It took me 4 hours for the round trip hike to the summit. However, I sat at the top for 30 minutes. I could have completed the hike in 3 ½ hours. It would have taken me half the time to only do a round trip to the lookout point.
Pursuit Cruise to Spirit Island
I debated whether it was worth it to pay for the cruise. I had already hiked up to Bald Hills and walked part of the shoreline. As such, I felt I had experienced and seen enough of the Lake. Ultimately, I decided to go for the boat ride. My initial feelings were wrong. The cruise was worth everything I paid for it, approximately $80 after taxes. Naturally, going on the water via a canoe or a boat is the best way to experience the Lake. As a price comparison, it was $60 to rent a kayak for an hour and $76 for 90 minutes on the boat cruise. The additional $16 was worth the exponentially better views of seeing the entire Lake instead of just the parts I could paddle to within an hour. Moreover, the tour guides on the boats do a wonderful job noting the key points of interest (e.g. glaciers at the top of the mountain tops) and tell the story of the Lake while you cruise toward its south end. In addition, there is no need to make sure you get a window seat for the cruise. For the best pictures, guests are allowed to walk outside to the back of the boat where there are no windows and open air. There are two distinct colors at various parts of the lake: turquoise blue and emerald green. As you approach the south part of the Lake, you will notice that the color of the Lake is richer and emerald. It is due to the fact that part of the Lake is closer to the source glacier that feeds it. Accordingly, the glacier silk concentration is higher. Naturally, it is the most beautiful part of the Lake.
The cruise takes you to Spirit Island. In actuality, it is only an island in the spring when the water levels are higher due to snow melting and heavy rain. Most of the year, it is connected to the shore. Consequently, it is really a small peninsula. Nevertheless, tourists are not allowed to step on the island, which is sacred to the indigenous people. The boats dock on a nearby pier and there is a short loop where tourists can walk around to get magnificent photographs of Spirit Island and the south end of the Lake. The cruise spends about 30 minutes at that end of the Lake. You get about 20 minutes on land to enjoy the sights and use the washroom. From the various lookout points along the short loop, you will also look at the towering Queen Elizabeth Mountains [named after Queen Elizabeth II as a gift from the Canadian government for her coronation in 1953]. The mountains surround the south end of the Lake and form a narrow “box canyon”. It is why European explorer Mary Schaffer called that part of the Lake the “Hall of the Gods”. As I stared into that Hall with the clouds of the mid-morning, I truly felt that I was sitting in a gallery observing Zeus and the Greek Gods on Mount Olympus. It was the most magnificent moment during my time in Jasper National Park. I am glad I did not skip it.
On the other hand, it is an amazing experience depending on conditions. I went on this cruise within the 25% of the time the conditions are conducive for visibility to see everything. However, it might be a roll of a dice that you can see everything (hopefully most). The best time is generally 4 PM in the afternoon because the sun is in an optimal position for photographs. Our tour guide noted that low lying clouds can get stuck within the mountains during the morning and do not clear out till after 2 PM. I went on the second cruise of the day at 8:45 AM. I was constantly checking the weather the day before to guess whether it would be good conditions for visibility. The forecasts constantly fluctuated between clear and cloudy. Accordingly, I would not recommend booking the tickets for the cruise (regardless of the 10% discount for booking more than 48 hours in advance) until the day before because you will want to have your best guess at the weather. In my opinion, maximizing the value of whatever you pay for the experience is more important than saving 10%. On the other hand, definitely book the tickets ahead of time before you arrive. I tried to buy the tickets on location at noon and the only cruise available was the premium one after 4 PM. The biggest potential visual obstructions would be smoke from any wildfires in British Colombia (generally possible late July through August) and low lying clouds. A full day of rain cleared out the smoke during my trip. I was also fortunate that there was no low lying clouds the morning of my cruise.
- Maligne Canyon (3.9 kilometers/ 2.4 miles and 140 meters/ 459 feet elevation change)
It is at the beginning of Maligne Lake Road and only 15 minutes from the center of the town of Jasper. It is also a spot that does not rely on great weather to enjoy it since you are going into a canyon. It is an easy hike with modest and gradual elevation change. You also have full cell service. The trails take you from the top of the canyon to the canyon floor. Along the way, you will follow the Maligne River as it cuts through the canyon walls and waterfalls. The main trail is marked with tags for “7”. However, there are detours. I would definitely recommend heading to the First Bridge to see the waterfall there. Back to the main “7” route, it is a steady decline down to the canyon floor and river. There are manmade, metal steps and railing at various points to help. I suggest ending at the Fifth Bridge. The trail actually continues much longer to some lakes. However, it would be a very long hike. If you wanted to see those lakes (e.g. Edith Lake), I would complete the Maligne Canyon hike then drive to the parking lot for those lakes to walk around.
In order to hike back to the parking lot from the Fifth Bridge, I would head back up via the “7h” trail. You continue on “7” for a little bit and need to look for the small tag for “7h”. It makes the hike a loop. “7h” is a little steep at first then levels off as you walk along a ridge. The views are not as great. “7” has views of the canyon walls, rivers, and waterfalls. However, you would have already seen those views on the way down. In addition, “7h” is the quickest way back to the parking lot and there are a lot less people. There are also a couple of great lookout points to see the valleys above the canyon from there. As an alternative, you can also park at the Fifth Bridge parking lot if you wanted to hike up then down on the return leg. From the town of Jasper, you will see the sign for the Fifth Bridge parking lot first before you see the sign for the main parking lot for Maligne Canyon. Again, the Canyon is a great spot to visit whenever you want to hold out for better weather for the other sites in the Park. Its proximity to town also provides additional flexibility in fitting it in during your trip.
- Athabasca Glacier – Columbia Icefield Discovery Centre (Columbia Icefield Discovery Centre)
It is a good in between point for a drive between Banff and Jasper since it is a little over 2 hours north of Banff and 1 ½ hours south of Jasper. It is impossible to miss the Columbia Icefield Discovery Centre since it is a large building right on the IceFields Parkway. From the Centre parking lot or the highway, you can see the Athabasca Glacier up on the mountain. As such, it is classified as an ice field since it resides up in a mountain range. You can buy tickets for the all-terrain Ice Explorer, a vehicle built for driving on to the glacier, to walk on the glacier and get an up close view of the wall of ice near the top of the mountain. It is not cheap at $109 (10% off if you book more than 48 hours in advance). Is it worth it? It is certainly a bucket list item to ride up an ice field on an Ice Explorer then stand on a sheet of ice on a glacier. On the other hand, I had already been on an Alaska cruise. Our ship sailed into a bay and right up to a large glacier basin. I could see the long glacier wall that met the ocean and the top of the large land mass behind it. Our ship made 360 spins so guests could enjoy the moment. I also went on a shore excursion to the Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau. The Glacier carves through the heart of mountains and empties into a big river. Accordingly, you have a view of the glacier, the mountains on each side, and a river. The Athabasca Glacier is not nearly as spectacular as either of those two because there is not as much to see. Once the Ice Explorer reaches the top of the glacier, you are staring at the wall of ice and cannot see anything behind it.
The tour starts from the Discovery Centre. You take a bus for 5 minutes and arrive at one of the Ice Explorers. It is a 20-25 minute ride up the ice field to where it drops you off at a sectioned off area of the glacier. From there, you get to stand on top of the ice field. You also have a good view of the wall of ice at the top of the mountain that connects to the rest of the glacier. In addition, you get excellent views looking back down the ice field and at the surrounding Sir Winston Churchill mountain range. You get about half an hour to walk around the ice and look at the ice wall. Remember that you are walking on ice so it will be slippery. Try to walk on the parts that look like shaved ice. Those spots have the best traction. In the end, I definitely enjoyed the experience. I am glad I did it. However, it is probably something I would only do once. I would do another Alaska cruise to venture into another glacier bay in a second. Of course, I am probably just glacier spoiled. The Athabasca Glacier is definitely much more exciting for anyone who has not seen it yet. If you want a little more physical activity at the Athabasca Glacier, there are 3-6 hour ice walks up it.
After the Ice Explorer brings you back down the glacier, a bus will take you to the Skywalk. It is approximately 10 minutes north on the TransCanada Highway. In my opinion, you get similar views just driving on the highway. I had assumed the Skywalk was up at the mountain tops but it is only built off of the side of the highway. The only differentiator is the Skywalk provides a see through glass floor so it makes you feel like you are floating above the valley and the river below. It is already included in the fee for the Ice Explorer. Accordingly, you should definitely experience the Skywalk to get your money’s worth. However, I would not pay $31 just for the Skywalk and not do the Ice Explorer. In total, it took 2 hours to leave for the Glacier and Skywalk and return to the Discovery Centre.
Although there is a 10% discount for booking 48 hours in advance, I would not advise doing so. Visibility will be critical in your overall experience. I initially planned to do the Ice Explorer on my drive north to Jasper from Calgary. However, it was raining hard that day. When I looked up at the ice field from the Centre’s parking lot, it was mostly covered by clouds. Consequently, I am glad I did not commit myself in advance to walking around in a cloud and not seeing much. Accordingly, I returned to the Glacier on my drive down to Banff after Jasper. Ideally, I would have been on the Ice Explorer when it was partly cloudy. However, cloudy with a low chance of precipitation was solid conditions.
- Sulphur Skyline Hike (8 kilometer and 700 meter elevation change)
From my experience, it rivaled and maybe even surpassed Maligne Lake in magnificence. The trail begins next to Miette Hot Springs, which is an hour drive from the town of Jasper. It is a 30 minute drive north on the Yellowhead Highway (Highway 16) then another 30 minutes to the end of Miette Road. There are other hikes that begin at the Miette Hot Springs Parking lot. Make sure you walk up to the Hot Springs. The trailhead begins to the right of it. It takes approximately an hour to hike to the first lookout point. Within that first hour, there is a gradual increase in elevation via many switchbacks. At the lookout point, you will get great skyline views of the mountains. However, it is not anything I have not seen on other hikes. If I stopped there, I would have noted the hike is very good but nothing special. Instead, I hiked another 30 minutes to get to the real summit. The trail to get there was rocky, windy, and cold. On my journey to the lookout point, I was sweaty and took off my jacket. From the lookout point to the summit, it was dramatically colder and I forced myself to wear my jacket. It was very uncomfortable to be sweating from the trek up but freezing and needing to put on a jacket. The path to the summit was also significantly steeper than the gradual elevation change to get to the lookout point. Consequently, I stopped approximately 5 times just to catch my breath. The steepness is also a challenge on the way down. Accordingly, go at your own pace and make sure you have solid footing before you step. Pebbles and rocks provided better traction than dirt by itself. Nevertheless, the extra effort was rewarded with a spectacular, 360 panoramic view of the Canadian Rockies. You will feel like you are standing among the mountain tops in the Park. You will only understand why the Sulphur Skyline is arguably the best hike in Jasper at the summit. I can honestly say it is unparalleled. The beauty will take your breath away more than the steep climb to the top will cause shortness of breath.
For hikers, the Sulphur Skyline should move to the top of the list of things to do in Jasper. I was also extremely with lucky with the conditions when I completed the trek. There was heavy smoke the week before my trip. Heavy rain from the day before cleared it all out. Moreover, the clouds dissipated in the morning and it was only partly cloudy later in the day. When I did the hike in the late afternoon, the sky was picture perfect. As such, I would definitely recommend trying to time this hike for the best conditions you are expected to see during your visit to Jasper. Completing the hike and taking the time to enjoy the summit took me 2 hours and 40 minutes.
Miette Hot Springs (Miette Rd, Jasper, Miette Hotsprings, AB T0E 1E0, Canada)
I did not take a dip in the hot springs. However, it can totally be a reward for completing the Sulphur Skyline hike. Of course, you can enjoy it even if you do not hike. The Springs are basically a pool with hot, mineral water. Moreover, the mountains in the backdrop provide a picturesque setting that completes the perfect spot for soothing relaxation. The price is also reasonable. It is approximately $10 per adult to enter and rent a towel and locker.
- Jasper Skytram (Jasper, AB T0E 1E0, Canada)
I did not go on the Jasper Skytram. I had hiked to the summits of the Sulphur Skyline and Bald Hills. As such, paying $46.95 for the Skytram, for views that may not be as good, did not appeal to me. On the other hand, I did go up a gondola in Banff and the views were spectacular and worth the price of admission. Consequently, I would definitely recommend walking among the clouds and the mountain tops at some point during a trip to the Canadian Rockies whether the medium to do so is a hike or via Skytram.
- Town of Jasper
From my perspective, the town of Jasper is a pretty village nestled between the mountains of the Canadian Rockies. It is not as big or commercialized as the town of Banff. Nonetheless, it is certainly built for and catered to the many tourists that visit the Park. Connaught Drive is the main road that runs through the town. Not surprisingly, most of the hotels and inns are on or a couple blocks off of that road. Residential homes are situated on the roads further back. In addition, there are plenty of solid food options in Jasper. Naturally, most of them are located in the town center on Patricia Street.
Food
- Earl’s Kitchen (600 Patricia St, Jasper, AB T0E 1E0, Canada)
My favorite meal in Jasper was brunch at Earl’s. Moreover, it has a brunch happy hour from 11 AM to noon when all brunch dishes are $9 each. I ordered the Avocado Super Smash, which is basically avocado toast with an egg on top. The poached eggs were perfect. The runny yolk oozed on to the avocado toast. The avocado was fresh and delicious. The dish came with a side salad. The hemp seeds went great with the lettuce. I also ordered a side of the potatoes. They were awesome and the skin was crisp. The green juice was good too. However, it was very sweet so probably not as healthy as it sounds.
- ALBA (610 Patricia Street &, 2nd floor, Jasper, AB T0E 1E0, Canada)
It is a casual, fine dining spot for awesome pasta. I ordered the oxtail parpadelle as my main entrée. I loved everything about it. The pasta was soft and cooked perfectly. It was obvious that the parapdelle was handmade. The oxtail was immaculate. It was shredded, tasty, and tender like a great pulled pork. Next, the mushrooms complimented everything flawlessly. Finally, the sauce was solid. It did not jump out at me but it mixed in well with the rest of the dish.
On the other hand, I also ordered the Crostini Platter and had mixed feelings. There were four pieces of crostini [like bruschetta bread]. Two of them had apple and prosciutto and the other two had smoked salmon and cream cheese. The prosciutto was solid. Almonds went surprisingly well with it. In terms of the salmon, it was legitimate wild salmon. In my opinion, there was way too much cream cheese on the salmon. It was huge chunks that overpowered the flavor of the fish. I could hardly taste the salmon on the first piece. I removed the cream cheese altogether on the other piece.
I was also impressed with the owner. He had talked to me throughout my meal about the food and the Park. However, he did not tell me he was the owner until after I finished my meal. It was like he went undercover to get honest feedback about his food to improve his restaurant. In terms of crostini, he noticed I removed one piece of cream cheese and left it on the plate. He asked me about it even though I finished everything else. He noted that some diners like a lot and others want less cream cheese based on preference. Nevertheless, he took my opinion into consideration and I appreciated his dedication to deliver the highest quality.
- Patricia’s Deli (610 Patricia St, Jasper, AB T0E 1E0, Canada)
It is a hole in the wall spot tucked a little bit inside and behind shops. It is a solid sandwich shop. I ordered a chicken sandwich. The chicken was a little dry since it was premade sandwich meat. I would probably recommend getting another meat. The smoked beef looked excellent. I highly suggest asking for the cranberry chutney on any sandwich. The sauce was awesome. Moreover, sprouts really worked with my sandwich. The deli is a quick grab and go place. There is one table to sit if you want to eat it immediately.
- Raven Bistro (504 Patricia St, Jasper, AB T0E 1E0, Canada)
It is a good restaurant for Greek food. I started with the salmon chowder appetizer. It was good but there was not enough soup in the chowder. For my entrée I ordered The Three Pharoahs, which included lamb, chicken, and beef. It is basically a sampler with smaller portions of the three meats. The lamb was solid. It was tender and charred. The accompanying white sauce was excellent. In terms of the chicken, it had a good char on the outside and was not overcooked on the inside. Nevertheless, it was a little more well-done than I prefer. I like chicken a little more tender. Finally, the beef was outstanding. It was extremely tender and chewy. I also love the tomato sauce that came with it. Moreover, the steaks that other diners ordered looked amazing. I was not overly surprised since Alberta beef is a significant industry in the province. In general, it is usually a good bet to order what a place is known for when you visit it. If I return to Jasper, I am definitely returning to Raven Bistro to try the steak. The Three Pharoahs dish was completed with pita and couscous. Both were great and very soft. The couscous was seasoned very well. For me, it was actually the most memorable part of the dish.
Coffee
The town of Jasper is kind of in the middle of nowhere. Accordingly, I did not expect the coffee to blow me away. In terms of specialty coffee, the quality and taste was acceptable. It did the trick: gave me the jolt of caffeine I needed.
- Snowdome (607 Patricia St, Jasper, AB T0E 1E0, Canada)
Snowdome is a kiosk located inside a laundromat. It is a convenient combination since you can enjoy coffee while you do your laundry. My latte had a hint of bitterness so the beans could have been slightly extracted better. However, the microfoam and overall latte was smooth. The latte art could have been better but the substance of the drink was fine. Snowdome also bakes their own goods. I tried the bran apple blueberry muffin. It was very good.
- WickedCup (912 Connaught Dr, Jasper, AB T0E 1E0, Canada)
I was not overly impressed with the latte at WickedCup. There was a clear bitter taste but it was not so bad that I could not drink it. In the end, the latte was nothing special. However, it was acceptable and provided the burst of energy I needed.
Lodging
Of course, staying in the park, especially the town of Jasper, is very pricey. I stayed at Tonquin (100 Juniper Ave, Jasper, AB T0E 1E0, Canada), which was near the north end of Connaught Drive. It was more like a motel than an inn. Nevertheless, I thought it was comfortable and sufficient. It was definitely overpriced [$250 per night] for the quality I was getting. However, I understood that location is the commodity I was paying for during my stay. In addition, options in Jasper can get scarce. I booked my trip within a month of when I wanted to go and I had to wait for a room to be available on Expedia because it was sold out at a point. In comparison, I had a much easier time booking accommodations in Banff.
The closest option outside of the Park is Hinton, which is an hour northeast of the town of Jasper. I felt it was too inconvenient. Not surprisingly, the town of Jasper is the logical center point of the main attractions in the Park: Maligne Lake, Miette Hot Springs, and Athabasca Glacier.
- Scenic Drive between Banff and Jasper
I drove on the Trans-Canada Highway, IceFields Parkway (Highway 93), and Yellowhead Highway (Highway 16) between Calgary and 30 minutes north of Jasper [on my way to the Miette Hot Springs]. It rivaled the most beautiful, scenic drives I have been on: Pacific Coast Highway in California, Road to Hana in Maui, and the Sea-to-Sky Highway north of Vancouver in British Colombia. In addition, the IceFields Parkway and Yellowhead Highway are one lane in each direction. Accordingly, I mostly used my side view mirrors to take another look at the beautiful landscape I just drove past. Naturally, mountain ranges span the length of the drive from Banff through Jasper. In addition to snow-capped mountains I have seen elsewhere, I also saw alpine glaciers on top that fed the lakes below. Of course, the lakes are the most recognizable and beautiful attractions in the Canadian Rockies. On the scenic drive, you will see many smaller lakes along the highway. There were a couple of bigger lakes just off the highway that were worth a stop to break up the long drive between Banff and Jasper. I stopped by one on the way up then one on the way down.
Peyto Lake
It is 30 minutes north of Lake Louise and about an hour above Banff. It has the rich, turquoise water that is renowned in the Rockies. It is a lot smaller than Lake Louise so you can take a short walk on a paved path up to a lookout point to see the entire lake. Moreover, the source glacier is not up in the mountain tops. It is on ground level and connects directly to the Lake. It is the reason why the water color is so rich. The glacier silk is more concentrated the closer the lake is to the glacier. Most tourists stop at the main lookout point. Accordingly, it is very busy. For a more private and better view, continue up. There is a loop that starts at a blue sign shortly after the first lookout point. Walk in a counterclockwise direction. There are multiple dirt paths with footprints that head to the other lookout spot. There is also a blue information stand that points you on a definite path to it if you are not sure the previous ones are actual trails. I spent an hour to walk up to and enjoy both lookout points. There are also longer hikes to go further up the mountain.
Bow Lake
It is also 30 minutes north of Lake Louise and an hour above Banff. It is about 5 minutes from Peyto Lake. If you are not driving up to Jasper, it makes sense to stop by both lakes at the same time. I stopped at Peyto Lake on the way up to Jasper and Bow Lake on the return drive back to Banff. As the name describes, it is basically two oval lakes that connect at the middle to form a bow shape. Naturally, it has the same beautiful blue and green colors seen at the other lakes. The mountains also contrast the lake perfectly. I recommend walking to the bridge behind the lodge. The views are amazing. You can see both sides of the lake from there. In addition, you can take the easy 9 kilometers (5.6 miles) with modest elevation change at 155 meters (509 feet) elevation gain to the Bow Glacier Falls if you wanted to add the popular hike to your trip. I passed on that hike but the Lake was definitely worth a 10 minute stop to soak in and enjoy.
About Pat Wong
Patrick is a contributor for Rookerville. He is an avid sports fan. Before joining Rookerville, he was part of a defunct New York Yankees message board, NYYankeefans, where he was its top poster and was inducted in its Hall of Fame for his contributions. Patrick is also a passionate fan of movies. He has enjoyed reading movie reviews over the years and is excited about the opportunity to review movies. Patrick is also a passionate foodie. He is Yelp Elite for three years in a row and shares his great finds in New York and his travels.
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